If you’re into history and food, these destinations may be of interest to you. I took advantage of a Jetstar promo and bought return tickets to Jieyang/Shantou for only $64. Here’s my itinerary:
Day 1 Jieyang airport is about half an hour from Chaozhou, an hour away from Shantou and two hours from Meizhou. You may actually start your trip from any of the three cities. For me, Shantou seems to be the logical place to start. The Jetstar flight timing is such that by the time you’re checked into your hotel, it’s almost time for dinner.
Fuyuan is the place to be for Teochew dishes.
Air-conditioned and hygienicThe signature dish, braised pork (隆江猪手). Marinated through and through and so delicious.Raw crabs. Rich and creamy.Large chunks of goose liverThe porridge is thicker than the Singapore version and it is better. Superior rice grains for sure.Vegetables are always served in huge portions in China, and always very freshPu Ning (普宁) bean curd. Deep fried and tastes very good when taken with the accompanying chives dipping.The restaurant is huge, but you should still be there early to avoid queuing
After dinner, we took a long stroll towards Xiao Wu rice rolls (小吴肠粉), stopping by Suning mall along the way.
Opens 7+ pm to 4amSome people are out off by the shirtless chefsThe pork, seafood and eggs is the more popular option and it is loaded with fillingsSeems quite easily put together but very tasty
Day 2 The Shantou old city area is worth spending half a day to check out. Various traditional food outlets are littered throughout this area.
First stop, Laomagong (老妈宫) dumplings. It is named after the temple across the street, which is near the centre of the old city area.
Hidden in a small alley but well marked It is different from the Hokkien style dumplings we are used to. It is mostly savoury but also has red bean paste embedded, and served with sauce. Tastes good.Besides dumplings they sell a few other itemsJust around the corner, Aixi noodlesIt is similar to the Fuzhou noodles but with much less Tahini. You can also choose Kway Teow.Comes with soup as a setWhat the old city looks like and it is in Chinese baroque styleRestoration underway and I think they may have gone a little too far in the “correction” doneI hope they retain the present looks. I even prefer retaining the plants growing on the roofThe center of old city, cslled little garden (小公园)Iconic octogonal windoes
To relieve the stomach from too much food, we visited the Shantou development museum, which is free admission and interesting enough. Still quite stuffed but had to proceed with lunch, at Fuhecheng (福合埕), just to check it off the list.
Beef is a specialty of Shantou and ChaozhouThe beef ball was very springy and juicyThe original outlet, and they have outlets all over ShantouThere is a sense of serenity around hereAnother age old store near the center specializing in all types of Kueh (粿)No room for theseQuite a wide varietyThe old buildings look sturdy and well ornamentedThis is called almond and sesame tea, though it is obviously not tea. A little too starchy but delicious nevertheless.Quite a few shops selling this but this one is one of the oldest, and it is air-conditioned!Before dinner, we had a go at this dessert place famous for bean curdOn the left, cylinder shaped Tangyuan (glutinous rice dumplings) with filling that is called 鸭母捻, and bean curd on the right. There is a sticky feel to the bean curd and it is quite special.The seaside corridor near People’s parkShantou is full of seafood stalls called Da Pai Dang, and Cai Ji is a well known one that has been upgraded into a restaurant.A small fish that is said to be popular in ShantouA very interesting signature dish at Cai Ji, pumpkin in coconut milk. Also has yam cubes. It is like Bo Bo Cha Cha.So good we finished it despite being very full
Day 3 There are frequent buses to Chaozhou, although it is somewhat annoying that the bus spends half an hour picking up passengers in Shantou before actually starting on the journey to Chaozhou. It is also possible to take a train to Chaozhou and the trip takes only half an hour (vs more than an hour by bus), but you may have trouble finding a taxi when you arrive! In fact, this was the biggest problem we faced when in Chaozhou. The taxis don’t go by meter and you have to haggle over the price. More importantly, you may not even be able to find a taxi when you need one!
Other than this very distasteful tourist trap of being swindled every time you need to get around, Chaozhou is a pleasant place to be, despite being very touristic.
Grabbed some Kueh before leaving Shantou. The chives and green bean ones are savoury while the dark red one is red bean.Paifang street, the successful tourist magnet that all the neighbouring cities are trying to emulateThe traditional businesses, like this noodle shop, on Paifang street are slowly taken over by new enterprises.Hanshanglou (韩上楼) is the biggest dim sum place in ChaozhouThe harkao is good. Overall, don’t expect Hong Kong kind of standard here. Price is reasonable.The alleys around this old city area is fun to exploreOld city gate that is wide enough for a car to pass throughGhangji bridge is beautiful and functional at the same timeSupposedly an ancient bridge but it is completely newly designedThe section of the bridge that is made up of boatsThe boats are removed every day at 5pmGhangji gate, the old city gateHuliangquan is a century old snack place along Paifang streetPopiah is called 春饼. They also sell other Teochew specialties like fermented beans biscuits.Traditional way of making Popiah skinThe Popiah filling is green beans. May not work for everyone but I do like green beans.This was totally unplanned for but the billboard grabbed my attention. Braised goose. Just around the corner from Hurongquan, built into the new East Sea Hotel that is still under renovation.This was very good! And cheap too (80 Yuan)The restoration effort is slowly progressing into all the alleys of the old cityGood thing they are preserving this ornamented wallThe streets are quite neat and they remind me of JapanThe old houses definitely look better than the modern onesFruit juice shops like this one is all over Chaozhou and ShantouThe fresh fruits are sprinkled with 甘草 which is a type of herb. You can choose to eat the fruits as is or blend them into juice. They add a lot of sugar to the blended drink so you might want to tell them to hold back on the sugar.RusticAnother Chaozhou specialty, fish dumplingsThey serve soup in the eveningYou can taste the fish in the fish ball. A meaty feel which I like rather than the bouncy and starchy fish balls that’s been “improvised” to save cost.Final food item to check off the list for the day – oyster omeletteVery thin and crispy. Thumbs up. I would say this is better than the ones in Singapore and Taiwan which are more starchy.Even the locals come and walk about Paifang street at night. The shops stay open till around 10.
Day 4 You could say this was the day when everything went wrong. My plan was to take a train to Meizhou. There was conflicting information on the train schedule and it turned out the 11am train I was hoping to take was no longer available since years ago. Lesson learnt: the train schedule that is actually available for booking online (via ctrip website for example) is accurate.
Kway Chap for breakfast inside the courtyard of an old house.This was truly tasty. The rice starch was thick and smooth.The surrounding will keep you occupied before your food is served
It’s unfortunate that Chaozhou and Meizhou are not well connected. There is only a single train trip per day at 530pm and two bus trips at 915 and 3pm respectively. The situation will be much improved when the high speed rail link is launched later this year (2019). If you’re interested to go to Meizhou, you might want to hold off your travel plans until the high speed rail is operational. It departs from the high speed rail station near Jieyang Chaoshan airport.
Anyway, I decided to catch a bus to Jieyang and transit to another bus for Meizhou. Little did I know, there was a detour from the usual 2 hours route from Jieyang to Meizhou due to road closure, and the journey became 4.5 hours! Anyway, this was still the best outcome possible, being able to arrive at Meizhou around 6pm. If I took the 3pm bus from Chaozhou or the 530pm train, I would have arrived at 8pm! It was raining the whole day anyway, and I may not have been able to do much anyway if I arrived at the planned timing 1pm.
Headed for a Hakka meal right away. Food from a factory assembly line restaurant like this one is so-so as expected.The Hakka noodles here (腌面) is said to be among the top ten in Meizhou (a commercially motivated listing so take it with a pinch of salt), but it was bland. The texture was good though. If you didn’t know, 腌面 is THE Hakka dish.Abacus seeds (算盘子). It is more chewy than the ones we are accustomed to in Malaysia and Singapore. You can see that it looks translucent.
Day 5 My original plan for the day was to visit the neighbouring small town called Songkou as well as the Nanyanfei tea plantation (雁南飞茶园) and Qiaoxi Hakka village (桥溪古韵). Instead, I moved the itinerary I had planned for the day before to the present day, and thankfully it worked even better this way.
Youluo street (油罗街) is the logical place to start the food tour of old town. It’s tragic that they destroyed the original facade of the old town and installed a completely homogeneous and uninspiring new facade. No soul. They got it all wrong here in Meizhou, unlike Shantou and Chaozhou.The name of the street comes from the trade of selling fried snack items. Fried balls of pumpkin and yam being prepared.A snack that would be familiar to Malaysians – Gaizaipeng.Came to this little eatery by chance and the food was delicious炒粄皮 is like Kway Teow, just slightly thicker. Full of Wok Hey.This was the best 腌面. Texture and taste were superb. It’s true, as they say, that the best 腌面 is found in the little shops in the little alleys littered around Meizhou.三及第汤 which is a combination of pork, liver and intestines.Thick layer of oil and pork lard for the noodlesWhat the old town really looks likeHidden in this quiet alley is a specialty glutinous rice balls shop Rongji 荣记38 years selling just glutinous rice balls, amazingThe soup has pomelo skinNot like any glutinous rice balls I have ever tasted. Super smooth and has a special caramel sweetness. The plain ones were actually the best.Meizhou is quickly destroying all things they deem old and uglyThis corner of the old town is full of Clay pot rice restaurantsSo fragrant you don’t need a lot of meat go with the riceDonghu street is slated to undergo the “upgrading”, a pityAlready so full after all the food but must eat hereTake your pick, chair or bench seatingGot to try 梅菜扣肉 (pork belly with pickled vegetables), arguably the most famous Hakka dishHuge plate of steamed fish belly. I really love Hakka steamed fish. It does not have much gravy like Hong Kong style steamed fish. The two dishes came up to only 56 Yuan, unbelievable!Took a stroll towards the Hakka museum after lunch and came across this algae filled pond.Traditional housePond adds aestheticsRenjinglu, the former residence of Wang ZunxianOnce a consul general to Singapore, and later he represented the Chinese in San FranciscoThe museum has many well presented exhibits like this fire dragonThe link bridge to the Hakka museumThe museum is very well put togetherModel of a 围龙屋Malaysians will be familiar with this figureSingaporeans will know himFigurine that captures a heartbreaking moment so well1Q84 takes their coffee seriously. A good place to chill after the museum visit.The typical look of a cafe in this regionHaving seen a 围龙屋 in the museum, I chanced upon information about a restaurant housed in a 围龙屋 and promptly decided to go there. 万秋楼 is undergoing extensive restoration but was still open.It was a mansion of a rich man, and does not look anything like the model shown in the museumDining in the courtyardHad to try this dish 娘酒鸡. The chicken was too tough. The sweet gravy takes a bit of getting used to but is good.
Day 6 The plan for the day was to buy Hakka goodies and to have the final meal in Meizhou. The 1230pm bus arrived slightly ahead of the scheduled 230pm at Jieyang airport. Given we had more than 2 hours before the check-in counters open, we decided to explore the neighbouring villages. There isn’t any public transport at all, so we took a taxi to save some effort (the nearest village 孙畔村 is actually within walking distance). The fare had to be higher (20 Yuan) because the taxis usually take people into Shantou and Chaozhou instead of the nearby areas.
Meizhou neighborhood is abuzz with people shopping for groceriesWuhua (五华) is most well known for Yong Tau Fu (stuffed bean curd) and I had to try them. This restaurant sandwiched between the other two supposedly does not “slaughter” customers, though I’m not so sure if that were true in the end. Prices were reasonable I think.Bean curd wrapYong Tau Fu made with fresh bean curd, done in the most original style. Honestly speaking, I was too full from breakfast to be able to tell if it was really good.Hakka style steamed fish. Had to have it one last time.
We knew we would arrive at the airport too early, so I did research and found out there were villages in the vicinity of the airport worth checking out.
Caught a glimpse of an old village near the airport from the bus. There are quite a few.孙畔村 is the village nearest to the airport. Looks deserted. People are slowly moving out of these dwellings to modern ones.Picture perfect. Authentic, unlike the famous mural in Penang.Finally managed to try Chwee Kueh at the airport. Did not get to try them while at Chaozhou because the shops selling them don’t open early in the morning.The Chwee Kueh is not as good as the ones in Singapore. These were tougher, much more oily and salty.
